A Guide to Eating Your Way Through Martha’s Vineyard

There’s nothing like a Martha’s Vineyard summer: rustic beaches down quiet dirt roads, drop-dead gorgeous sunsets, lush greenery and gardens, and, of course, lazy days by the water. But perhaps the real star of the show on MV is the food. From the freshest seafood possible to a bevy of handpicked produce, you really can’t go wrong eating on this island.

Though many people assume Martha’s Vineyard is small in size, similar to neighboring Nantucket, they would be wrong. Martha’s Vineyard is 20 miles long and has six distinct towns (Chilmark, Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, West Tisbury, Aquinnah, and Vineyard Haven), each with its own personality and food offerings. The true beauty of the Vineyard is that you can get the best meal of your life at a little fish market shop, but also at a gourmet restaurant like The Terrace at The Charlotte Inn. Here’s our guide to eating your way through Martha’s Vineyard.

For Coffee & Breakfast

Behind the Bookstore

Though Bunch of Grapes Bookstore in Vineyard Haven has gotten more attention—Bill and Hilary Clinton had book signings there and President Obama has been known to drop by over the years—Edgartown has always held its own with its delightful reading nook, Edgartown Books. And now they’ve become even more charming with the Behind the Bookstore cafe, tucked away in a lovely garden. Edgartown, which is the most classic-looking New England town on the island, now offers a great place to grab a fresh cup of coffee in the morning and a delicious pastry, like their peach cruffin. The basil lemonade or chai tea is also great if you’re not into coffee. Though the cafe may be hidden, the reputation for this place is no secret—there’s often a line, but it’s definitely worth the wait. And if you can’t make it until evening, it’s also a great spot for a glass of wine and your favorite summer beach read.

Also worth a stop:

Catboat Coffee in Vineyard Haven and Aalia’s Coffee in Oak Bluffs are also great options for coffee and breakfast.

For a Lobster Roll Lunch or Grabbing a Bite for the Beach

Larsen’s Fish Market

Now maybe you’ve explored a town, taken a long bike ride, or are taking a break between beaches. Now it is time for lunch, and no trip to the Vineyard would be complete without a lobster roll. And the best place to get one is Larsen’s Fish Market in the fishing village of Menemsha in the town of Chilmark. This family-run market that started in the late 70s makes the most plentiful lobster roll you will ever get your hands on. No skimping here. Now, this is just what it says it is: a fish market where you can pick up a variety of fish, lobsters, crab to cook at home, or dine next to the market and take in the harbor sights, or just walk down the road to Menemsha beach—a great beach for kids with its minimal waves and also killer for sunsets.

In addition to the fantastic lobster roll—which is considered the best on the island—there’s also an oyster window where you can watch your oysters be shucked, and then you get to dress it yourself. The clam chowder, seafood bisque, stuffed scallops, and steamers are also excellent.

Also worth a stop:

For other lunch spots that are great between beaches to grab food to go, 7A Foods in West Tisbury makes the best sandwiches, like the Asparagus Melt. Or if you want a yummy salad The Chilmark General Store has an excellent selection (the pre-made Peanut Chicken Salad is particularly delicious). You can also pick up any groceries and/or beach supplies at either of these locations.

If you're craving pizza, though, the Chilmark General Store is where it's at. Grab a slice and then go sit in one of the rocking chairs on the porch and just breathe in that island air. It is also great for coffee in the morning if you are in that neck of the woods.

For Cocktails

Now you could just opt for a Narragansett like Captain Quint in Jaws—famously filmed on Martha’s Vineyard 51 years ago this summer—but if you are looking for something a little fancier, you have plenty of choices.

9 Craft Kitchen & Bar in Vineyard Haven has one of the best martinis on the island, or head over to The Pelican Club in Edgartown—located in the stunning and newly renovated Faraway Hotel formerly The Kelley House— for a little cocktail and a little sushi (that is literally all they serve.) Or if you want a bit more of an adventure, get on a boat for a Cottage City Oyster Farm Tour. For oyster connoisseurs and novices alike, you can BYOB some refreshments and get the freshest oysters possible as you learn all about their journey from seed to market on this floating raw bar.

For Dinner Time

For dinner, there are so many incredible options on the island, it’s quite hard to pick. With so many choices, this may be a time you assess what vibes you want to make your selection.

Pawnee House in Oak Bluffs is always a good time and has some really delicious fresh vegetarian dishes, including the Gouda tart and vegan mushroom. But if you want more of a beer/food vibe and sprawling patio with games and live music, then Nomans in OB is where it’s at.

For a much more classic, New England, elegant atmosphere, head back to Edgartown to The Terrace at the famous and historical Charlotte Inn. A home for the whaling community in the 1900s, this perfectly restored boutique hotel was originally built in 1864 and meticulously decorated in the style of the time when it was purchased by Gary Conover and his wife in 1972 (they even made a Hallmark movie about their love and the hotel). The Terrace at The Charlotte Inn will provide a perfect evening of elegant dining, spearheaded by Executive Chef Zach Prifti, in one of the most beautiful hotels you will ever see.

If you want a louder crowd, just walk down the street to The Port Hunter for a delicious food and bar scene and some live music (the Brussels Buffalo and the catch of the day are always good choices).

For dinner with a view and a serene calm vibe, you’ll get away from the hustle and bustle of the busier towns and head up the island to Menemsha to the Outermost Inn. Originally started as a 7-room inn in 1989 by Hugh Taylor (brother of James), they started the restaurant out of necessity, as there weren’t many food options for their guests up there. Now this is one of the most coveted dining spots on the island, with its sunset views you can take in from Adirondack chairs as you sip on delicious wine and lawn snacks, which include their seafood sampler (oysters, shrimp, and ceviche).

For Snacks & Treats (at Any Time)

It is vacation, which means you can eat whatever you want, whenever you want (just don’t swim immediately after). So get that ice cream at The Galley right down the road after you have a Lobster Roll at Larsen. It’ll make it taste better.

Other great ice cream options include Mad Martha’s, located in both Edgartown and Vineyard Haven. Murdick’s Fudge, another island establishment, is never a bad choice either (and a great gift to take home).

Back Door Donuts in Oak Bluffs is a dessert stalwart on the island, but be prepared to wait in line. There’s something so appealing about the donuts feeling like a covert operation that makes them taste even better. This year, USA Today ranked the shop fifth in the country for the best donuts category.

Though they may not be riding the Swedish candy craze, The Ice Cream and Candy Bazaar is an old-fashioned candy boutique in Edgartown that the kids (and adults) will want to stop by. The Black Dog Bakery—where you can get that iconic t-shirt—also has some tasty desserts, just don’t go at peak tourist hours. And the West Tisbury Farmer’s Market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings at the Agricultural Hall gives you access to many of the local farms’ produce, jams, baked goods, and other treats.